I've Got A Confession To Make...

OK make that two confessions. When I had originally drafted this entry, it was about six months ago when I was starting to lose a little bit of focus on wine itself. I could easily change the title, but I think this is more likely to entice [potential] readers. Ha! So, now that you're suckered in, let's begin...and let's see if you can spot my change of heart.

When I first started writing this, I was starting to wander from my 'wine geek' ways. I was becoming more involved with the service and hospitality aspect of my job, and in doing so...falling victim to my own creation.

What does this mean?

In a word...BRAND.

I mean, I really used to know a lot about wine. I knew obscure varietals, forgotten regions...history and culture of places Wine Spectator wouldn't even think to look. That was fun for me.

Don't get me wrong, I could still blind taste and analyze wine like I used to...but I was just falling out of love with [mostly] irrelevant knowledge.

So what was I into? Oh...drinking KRUG and Montrachet all day. I mean...let's be honest, would you really stick with a G-Shock after being handed Rolex after Rolex?

Because of the nature of my job, it's location and the reach of the company I work for, I have had access to a LOT of wine that would otherwise be considered 'out of reach' for most of us- First Growth Bordeaux, DRC, Grand Cru Montrachet...top shelf producers like Gaja, La Tour, Lafite, Petrus all the way to Harlan, Scarecrow, Colgin etc...(You get the point).

When you drink and taste this stuff on almost a daily basis, it's actually very difficult to recalibrate your palate back to reality. It was such a new world to me- not only exploring/enjoying the wines, but also the people who produce them and the people who buy them.

There is a thrill that exists about executing the perfect wine service...especially when handing a thousand-some-odd dollar bottle of wine. I became addicted to this thrill. I mean, as a wine professional, you're really supposed to treat EVERY bottle with that kind of respect...and I do, but it's different when it's the real deal.

Generally speaking, the guests who order these high end bottles like to talk about the wine with their sommelier. Which means, "have some with us". Best words ever spoken into a bottle of Unico, I tell you. Sometimes they know a lot about wine and want to engage in debate/conversation...other times, they simply have the ability to buy something that they would like to learn more about.

In this atmosphere, I was learning so much about (and loving) high end wines, that I found knowledge of more esoteric wines to be taking a back seat. I was giving in to wines that *I* found more appealing, and was focusing on learning more about the top producers because that's what helped me sell and discuss them.

For a good while, I couldn't care less about the stellar $13 wines coming from a small village just outside of Umbria...but I could tell you the differences between the 7 year verticals of Blaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet I had.

If I lived my life "For the 'Gram", I'd be all set. (#sommlife). But alas, I'm not on instagram, and my life needed a bit more depth after awhile.

I avoided a lot of mixers and tastings for awhile, because of the types of Sommeliers that I would run into. You know, the type that were more into wine than the satisfaction of their guests. The type that is always vying with another for who knows the most about the least. Quality be damned, at that point...it just has to be obscure. You know...hipster somms.

Ive had these hipster somms try to sell me on things that were interesting on paper, but were of very low quality. You can tell they're in love with the idea of it, but probably couldn't taste the difference between their beloved wine and a bottle of grease. I've tasted plenty of wine in my time...I have no FOMO when it comes to grapes, so they better be good.

The combination of my expanding knowledge of fine wines, and my growing distaste for hipster wine only led me to alienate lesser known producers and regions even more. It did, however, cause me to really focus on my service. Honing my hospitality skills, with knowledge and charm loaded and at the ready at all times. One thing I never lost, though...was sincerity.

Sincerity- No matter what bottle you (or we) choose, I genuinely want you to enjoy it. What does "enjoy" mean? I don't mean "to like it". I mean you spent $50 and felt like you spent $100 on it...or you spend $100, and you felt like you spend $200. Believe me, I've spent $300 on a bottle of wine and have gotten $50 service, and I would never wish that upon any of my guests.

I guess what i'm trying to say is that (IMO) REAL somm life is about falling in love as much as possible. Love the wine, love the guests, love the job...everything else follows.

Maybe one day i'll decide to sign up for a sommelier master class of some sort. Maybe.

But right now, i'm just loving the process.























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Two Years In a Nutshell

I'm back for 2014...well, the later parts of 2014 anyway. I've been away from this blog for some time, but I have about 15 unpublished posts from 2013. Looking back on them now lead me to a revelation about myself, and ultimately a confession which i'll get to later. For now, let's catch you guys up on what the heck has been going on with me.

So the last you guys heard, I was starting my professional Sommelier career at a wine bar called "Vino At Trios". I was their full time sommelier and wine director for about a year and a half. I'm really glad that I was able to start here rather than some fancy restaurant or overly hip downtown wine bar...for a few reasons:
     - Learning: I learned so much from the people around me. The GM and owner of the wine bar both trained me, pushed me, and emphasized the importance of guest interaction and satisfaction. I also learned so much from every guest that walked into the bar. Everything from answering obscure wine questions, to learning how to deal with some rather...unsavory...situations.
    - Friendship: I've been fortunate enough to meet some great people in my time at Vino, and was able to cultivate real friendships out of something that could have just been a single glass of wine.
   - Humility: Nobody will believe this, but no matter where I go or who I meet, I'll never forget where I came from, and that my job is to serve and take care of my guests. I can get cocky (We all know that), but I will always take care of my guests, putting their needs first.

 

 

Just so you guys know that I'm the real deal, here I am serving some happy, white people

I was very happy here, but I knew that I had to leave because of what I wanted to accomplish. I had dreams and visions of fine dining establishments, James Beard Awards, Food & Wine Magazine Awards, Michelin Stars and so on. On a whim, I signed up for the CMS Certified Sommelier Exam.

I passed the Exam in March 2014, it was a nerve racking experience which i'll get into in another post. Suffice to say, after taking the theory and blind tasting portion of the exam,  I was looking at their examination schedule so I can sign up for a retake. But I passed, so take that!

Jesus Evangelista, CS

After I passed the exam, I wanted to get an idea of where I could end up. Looking at my personality and knowing the type of atmosphere in which I wanted to be immersed, there was only one place...Beverly Hills. I had a few nice meals at Hakkasan, and they were fairly new to town, so they were at the top of the list. I was also interested in a few other restaurants in the area, but I won't mention them because I don't want them to feel bad about not getting me.

It was a bittersweet moment, the day I left Vino. I remember my last solo shift, sitting in the dark bar after the last guest had left and the stools had been put up. I walked around the bar, the darkness of the room only faintly interrupted by the dull glow of the VinoTemp. I sat and soaked in a year and a half's worth of emotions and memories. I thought about everything I've learned, and about how all of my future opportunities will be thanks to this little wine bar.

Goodnight, Old Friend...

I started at Hakkasan in April, 2014. It was a really different atmosphere, requiring a whole new skillset, and a radically different approach to service. Triple the nightly covers, double the amount of wines on the menu, a whole new set of price points to get used to, a huge team to get to know...the list goes on. There were a LOT more moving parts in this restaurant than at Vino. SO MANY MORE, in addition to its' corporate politics. I'll dive more into those things once we get out of this nutshell.

It was a really hard job to get used to doing...and I'll be the first to admit that I was not able to do it stone-cold-sober. I needed my pre-shift martini to calm my nerves.

I have now been with Hakkasan for 5 months, and I was recently promoted to Lead Sommelier. I also offer services to Vino At Trios wine bar, still selecting their wines and helping with their menus, but my actual goal is to prepare them to win the Wine Spectator Wine Excellence Award in 2015. I also pick up a few floor shifts every now and then. I suppose I can start posting my Vino appearances to keep my adoring public updated.

So my name is now on TWO wine menus, in TWO restaurants in the SoCal area. It feels pretty good to see.

SO...That's where I am now. Lead Sommelier at Hakkasan Beverly Hills, Wine Director at Vino at Trios. CMS Certified Sommelier, studying for Advanced exam and WSET program in 2015.

WHEW...that was a short two years, but what a ride. More to come, catch you guys later!

BACK FOR 2013!

It has been a very long while since my last update. I have since decided to change the format of this blog to something less information-centric. When I first created it, I wanted to use it as a medium with which to profile (show off) my vast arsenal of wine trivia. Truth be told, nobody really cared about that. So I have decided to make this blog feature wine, but focus more centrally on something MUCH more interesting...ME!

This is ME

In the posts to come, you will be getting to know me, my experiences, my customers and everything else that goes on in my life (which may or may not be loosely related to wine in some form or another). My life is pretty damn interesting, so you better follow me lest you become socially obsolete within your current and future social circles.

I have been working professionally in this industry for several months now, and I already have a cellar full of stories for you all. Heck, some of you readers may even find your name in some of the entries. Stay tuned!

New World Vs. Old World Wine

I have made references to New World and Old World Wines in a few other entries and have gotten a few messages asking me to explain the differences between the two.

Geographically speaking, Old world wines come from Europe- France, Italy, Germany, etc...and the Middle East. New World refers to non-European countries- Americas, Australia, New Zealand etc...

There is also a wine STYLE difference. Old world wines tend to be lower in alcohol, higher in acidity, with more minerality, are less fruit forward and more terroir driven. A few descriptors of Old World wines are: Clay, loam, silt, wet rocks, petrol, leather, forest floor, tobacco, tree bark, and so on. (I bet you can't wait to crack open a bottle of German Petrol Riesling now, eh?)

New World wines will frequently be the opposite with low acidity, higher alcohol, and more robust and vibrant fruit flavours. A few New World descriptors are: Plum, cherry, cassis, pepper, spice, strawberry, blueberry and so on.

 New World wines are typically seen as drinkable and delicious younger in life, whereas the high end Old World wines are seen as needing a bit of age to reach optimum drinkability.

A few of my New World selections

A few of my Old World selections

Corkage and a Quick Intro to Wine Regions

I used to weigh the wine list very heavily when deciding which restaurants and/or bars I would go to.  At the time, I did not really look at the prices themselves. Rather, I looked at what vintage/region/varietal combinations were offered and how much effective variety the list had (to follow whatever courses the meal would take, or how many different palates would be at the table). Price per bottle/glass was a secondary calculation and it was very simple- If the glass or bottle was considered to be priced anywhere withing the realm of reason, then it was ordered. I really liked the way this plan worked out when the bill was not landing on my lap.

Eventually, I had to start paying my own restaurant bills...I knew this day would come sooner or later because one can only expense so many 'market research' and 'client dinners'. So when I would take friends out or otherwise plan social events on my dime, I began to really scrutinize what bottles/glasses were available and if they were really worth the price.

French wine, above all, really is a mystery to most. There is something sexy about the way certain names roll off your tongue when you order it (as many of my friends know, "Chateauneuf du Pape" is one of my favourite things to say). But once you figure out what something like "Vin De Pays" means*, you realize that it may not be worth the $50 that it's listed for.

I finally began to compare the prices of wine in my collection versus wines available by the bottle and realized that I could get a much better bottle if I were to just drink out of my own racks. Therefore, I started looking for places that had reasonable corkage fees.

For those not completely familiar, a corkage fee is basically a fee you pay to the restaurant if you would like them to open and serve a bottle of wine which you have brought in. Typical corkage fees range from $10-$25, but I have seen some as high as $50-$75 per bottle.

While this seems like an excellent way to sneak some Two-Buck-Chuck into a dinner and pull a fast one on your date, I consider it bad form to bring a bottle of wine that is obviously of lesser quality than what is reasonably available at the restaurant.

Example: A bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape can start at $60+ per bottle at some establishments. Buy a bottle from your local wine shop for $35, pay the $10 corkage fee and you've just bought a Lexus for the price of a Scion. What a hero! Your date will love you when they Google how much that bottle of wine [should have] cost at the restaurant.

Now, instead of looking solely at the wine list, I first look to see if they have a corkage fee and if it is a reasonable price for the establishment. Then I look at their wine list to see what they have available, and decide if I would pay corkage or simply buy a bottle from them. If I did decide to bring my own bottle(s) in, I then look at the food menu and decide what I should bring based on what would go with the theme of the restaurant.

Example: If it's a American restaurant specializing in heavy meats, decadent sauces and layers of flavour, I would likely bring something equally powerful- Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec and the like. I also like to pair based on regions, so Italian food, Italian wine; French food, French wine, and so on. Food and wine pairing is a fun topic on it's own, so we will come back to that in another entry.

Now you have a restaurant in mind, and you know what food they serve. What kind of wine should you ultimately end up bringing? Being that we're talking about being reasonable, let's look at some quick and easy ways to narrow down your selection.

New World Wines are fairly straightforward with lower prices [usually] than Old World selections, and because they are labeled by varietal they are also much easier to understand. Here are a few quick and easies:

California- You can't really go wrong with a Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. However, if Napa selections are a bit out of your price range then Paso Robles Zinfandel, Carneros Valley Sauvignon Blanc, and Santa Ynez Pinot Noir would all make great Napa substitutes.

Argentina- Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza, Torrontes from Salta (Preferably Cafayate, a sub-region of Salta).

Chile- CARMENERE! (Can you tell I love Camenere yet?) or Sauvignon Blanc. Both grow very well in Chile's Valle Central- Maipo, Rapel, Curico, Maule.

Australia- Shiraz from Barossa Valley, Semillon from New South Wales

New Zealand- Two words: Sauvignon Blanc! Some of the best examples come from Marlborough, South Island.

Some of my New World selections

Let's see if I can do some 'quick and easies' for Old World wines. This stuff is pretty heavy, so feel free to use it as a resource and come back to it as much as you need...I know I would have to.

Germany- Riesling from Mosel Valley, Muller-Thurgau, Silvaner and Riesling from Rheinhessen, Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) from Rheingau. (Was that so hard? Practice saying those aloud...it becomes more fun than French.)

Italy- Barolo and Barbaresco are easily the most important wines to come out of Italy, but they can be quite pricey. Since they are both made from the same grape, look for Nebbiolo from regions like Asti or Lombardy as a substitute. Of course, we cannot forget the great Prosecco, Italy's sparkling gem and a reasonably priced alternative to French Champagne. I would also like to add Chianti and Sangiovese from Central Italy/Tuscany.

France- There is a reason I saved France for last. Firstly, it has become one of my favourite wine regions to both drink and study. I find French wine to be historically interesting and deliciously complex. Secondly, I don't really want to write about it in a Quick&Easy format because there is SO much to know.

Some of the more advanced readers may notice that I am leaving some things out, but let's remember how difficult France was to ingest when we first started in wine. I will likely be omitting many first growths and Premier Crus because they simply do not fit the criteria of 'value' wines. Here we go!

Bordeaux- Some of the most expensive and sought after wines in the world come from this region. Even though those examples count for less than 5% of Bordeauxs' total wine output, the name really does carry weight. Bring any bottle of Bordeaux to a dinner and watch people get impressed. I have bought bottles of "Grand Vin de Bordeaux" between $8 and $20 a bottle. Chateau La Croix Du Duc and Chateau De Costis both come to mind. For dry whites look for Graves or Semillon and for sweet look for Sauternes or Barsac.

Cotes du Rhone- Very famous for it's whites like Rousanne and Marsanne, and of course the famous southern region of Chaeauneuf du Pape. I have seen bottles of Appellation Cotes du Rhone Controlee start between $7-$9 on up. I recommend Viognier from Chateau Grillet, Northern Rhone. Around $20 per bottle and a great, sweet wine.

Languedoc- France's largest wine producing region and a great source for 'affordable' French wine. I recently picked up two bottles of L'Artisan Languedoc (Syrah/Grenache blend) for $18 at Bevmo's $0.05 wine sale. This is a major source for Vin De Pays, so if you want French wine on a budget, this is a great region to look into.

Some of my Old World selections

There are still other major regions to cover in France, but I think this should be enough to get you started with choosing a wine to go with dinner. I think I will cover the other regions (Champagne, Alsace, Burgundy, Loire Valley, Provence) in another entry entirely devoted to French wine.

Hope this helps you choose your next few bottles, saves you some money and, as always, feel free to post any questions or comments you may have here!



* Vin de Pays- French wine classification for wines that are 'above mediocre'.

Delius Restaurant and 2007 Perrin & Fils Rasteau

I have not done reviews on actual venues on this blog, but I think I may begin to incorporate that when I come across one that I find striking...in any direction. I think I will start with Delius, a restaurant/wine cellar in Long Beach that I went to last night.

I went with my friend Kyle. It was actually his idea because he passes by Delius several times a week on his way to work, but has never stopped in. That all changed yesterday because we were already in the area and craving a glass or two (or four) so we rang the place up and headed on over.

I have spent a large portion of my life in the Long Beach area, and let's just say that I don't always equate Long Beach with this kind of dining experience. The restaurant is very modern with dim lighting and a nice, quiet atmosphere; Perfect for a date or simply a night out to enjoy some great wine.

The bartender gave us a 'By The Glass' wine list, which in all honesty was fairly lackluster. The walls of the restaurant were lined with wine bottles, very impressive looking- as if they really wanted to showcase their wine selection...but their wine list was full of Temecula selections. (Nothing against Temecula wines, but one would expect more with a place that looks as impressive as this.)

There were two Napa selections for which I would have settled, but I knew there had to be more to Delius than this. When the bartender came back, I asked to see a 'by-the-bottle' list; he returned shortly with a touchscreen tablet, not unlike an iPad, which had their wine list. Now THAT was cool. You can select wines by varietal, vintage, price and region. Being that i'm on an Old World wine kick, I chose France.

Price points for a venue like this, I feel, were fairly reasonable. Bottles started in the $20s with entrees and appetizers in the $14 and up range. We ended up getting a 2007 Perrin & Fils Rasteau and paired it with their Duck Confit, Overall, a magnificent pairing.

The wine service was very good; The bottle was presented and sampled, all the etiquette was followed and all that. However, if I had to split hairs, it would be over the fact that that their wine glasses were slightly water spotted and not as polished as I would have liked.

The Duck Confit was great. It was served over a bed of upland cress, topped with teardrop tomatoes, dried cranberries, red onion and bleu cheese crumbles. The duck leg itself was garnished with tomato yogurt spheres and mole sauce. I apologize for not taking a photo before we devoured it, but sometimes the stomach thinks faster than the brain.

Overall, a wonderful experience at a reasonable price point. Great place to take a date or simply enjoy a drink in a nice, quiet atmosphere. I will be back.

2007 Perrin & Fils, Rasteau L'Andeol- Cotes du Rhone, France.
At first opening, the wine had very apparent forest floor and tobacco aromas accompanied by subtle plums, red berries and hints of pepper and spice. The lighting was dim, but it appeared to be quite light in colour and intensity- a brick red colour which transitions to an almost watery-clear rim.

On the palate, the earth and minerality comes through before any fruit. The forest floor aroma translated into a clay and loam flavour, typical of Cote du Rhone wines. This particular blend is 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Lots of heat from the alcohol content of the Grenache (14% abv), and spicy, peppery texture from the Syrah. At first opening, the wine seemed balanced, but lacked complexity and finish; As it opened up, though, the depth really started to show. Lots of black fruit, cocoa and nice tannin and spice mouthfeel, opening up to a medium plus finish. It was very nice as a stand alone wine, but excellent with the Duck Confit.

At Delius Restaurant- Signal Hill, CA

Napa Valley and 2007 Esca Cabernet

California's Napa Valley is considered to be one of the most highly regarded wine regions in the Americas. There is more viticultural diversity within the Napa Valley appellation than there is within the Médoc or the Côte d'Or, with several California examples rivaling and even besting some famous French labels. Napa Valley has become so synonymous with excellent wine that even the casual storegoer knows that any selection from that region is a safe bet for a good time.

There are many factors which make Napa Valley special, in this entry we will touch briefly on three main characteristics: Climate (weather conditions), aspect (angle relative to the sun) and geology (soil content).

Because of the unique way that Napa is located and shaped, it has several microclimates which exist inside of it. Temperatures range from the cool and often foggy southern areas like the Carneros District, to the much warmer, closed-off northern regions where the Calistoga and St Helena Appelations are. Mountains and footbills protect much of the valley from excessive wind and rain, keeping the grapes safe from being torn apart or drowned. Napa also has a long growing season with warm, sunny days and cool nights- an ideal combination for allowing grapes to ripen slowly and evenly.

Vines are mostly planted on the valley floor, but more and more are being cultivated on the slopes. The wooded western slopes provide cool, afternoon shade- conditions which favour white grapes- Chardonnay, Sauvignon/Chenin Blanc, Riesling, whereas the more arid, rain-shadowed eastern slopes favour red varietals- Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel.

This beautiful balance of hot sun, cool ocean breezes, and (in some areas) shade provide enough sun and heat to ripen the thicker-skinned grapes (Cabernet, Zinfandel) but not overcook the more delicate varietals like Pinot Noir.

The soil content varies from one appellation to another, but the entire valley was once part of the ocean floor that has since been lifted up over years of tectonic evolution. The northern areas have been torn open and blasted with volcanic ash and rock, leaving a soil content of volcanic ash and gravel loams. The southern area closest to the San Pablo Bay has constantly been flooded and dried out over several centuries, depositing layers of sediment on the floor each time- leaving behind fertile clay and silt loams once the ocean retreats back.

Many 'Old World' French and Italian wines pride themselves on their 'terroir'- or the taste of the earth. Flavours of chalk, loam, gravel, slate etc come through first on these Old World wines, however California wines are initially very fruit-forward. Warm sun and [relatively] young vines give you powerfully ripe reds- flavours of black plums, cherries, cassis and berries will come before any earthiness or minerality.

So how do you choose the right Napa wine? There are hundreds upon hundreds of producers in the 16 appellations of Napa Valley (2012), you can easily drive yourself crazy picking apart which sub-regions have which micro-climate and soil ideal for growing which grape varietal in what year. My advice? Don't be afraid to try something new, and if you find something you really like then note it down (varietal, region, producer, vintage) and eventually you may begin to see a pattern.

Here is a fine example of a Napa Valley Cabernet: 2007 Esca Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon- Calistoga, Napa Valley. It is not the boldest Napa Cab that I've had, especially for a 2007, but it does have a great, velvety smooth texture and nice round fruit flavours of black plums, currants and a little bit of vanilla and spice from the French oak barrels. Great wine to pair with anything from lamb shanks to swordfish.

At Wine Lab Camp- Costa Mesa, CA.